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(03) — Europe · Sep–Oct, Apr–Jun

Italy

The country that invented cucina povera — beans, greens, bread, olive oil — is the easiest place in Europe to eat plant-based without anyone noticing you’re doing it.

Italy
Best months
Sep – Oct · Apr – Jun
Trip length
7 – 12 days
From
$6,400 pp
Fly into
Milan · Venice · Florence
(03.a) — Why here

Italians will tell you their food is about the ingredient, and for once the cliché is right. Pesto in Liguria, panzanella in Tuscany, risi e bisi in Venice — these were never dishes with the meat removed. They were always this.

What we add is the layer above the trattoria: the palazzo hotel on a quiet canal, the Cinque Terre room with a balcony over the water, the Florentine counter that does a vegan tasting menu as a matter of pride. And we send your dietary needs to every hotel before you arrive.

A route we like

(03.b) — 3 stops · 9 nights
  1. Venice
    013 nights

    Venice

    A palazzo on a side canal, the Rialto market at seven in the morning, cicchetti bars that do more than crostini. Arrive by water.

  2. Cinque Terre
    023 nights

    Cinque Terre

    A balcony room in Monterosso, the coastal path between villages, trofie al pesto and a swim before dinner.

  3. Florence
    033 nights

    Florence

    A quiet hotel south of the Arno, the Sant’Ambrogio market, ribollita done properly, sunset from the bridge.

(03.c) — What to eat
  • Trofie al pesto
  • Risi e bisi
  • Panzanella & ribollita
  • Farinata
  • Pasta e ceci
  • Cornetto e cappuccino d’avena
(03.d) — What we watch for

Cheese hides everywhere

Pecorino in the pesto, parmigiano on the pasta, ricotta in the pastry. We send hotels your notes in writing and flag what to ask for at the table.

Breakfast is the weak point

Italian hotel breakfast leans on pastry and cappuccino. We choose properties where the morning table is more than fruit, and confirm plant milk is stocked.

Shoulder season pays twice

Late September on the Ligurian coast is half the August rate, the sea is still warm, and the trains are half empty.

Thinking about Italy? Tell us when.