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(03) — Europe · Jun–Aug

Sweden

Stockholm in midsummer is the easiest plant-based city in Europe: every menu is labeled, oat milk is the default, and the New Nordic kitchens cook vegetables like they mean it.

Sweden
Best months
Jun – Aug
Trip length
6 – 8 days
From
$5,800 pp
Fly into
Stockholm Arlanda
(03.a) — Why here

Sweden made plant-based ordinary before anyone else did. A third of Stockholm eats vegetarian several days a week, so the city does not treat you as a special case — the falafel counter, the fine-dining room, and the hotel breakfast all just have it. The light lasts until eleven, and the water is everywhere.

We stay on the water in Södermalm or a quiet street in Östermalm, book the tasting menus that need six weeks’ notice, and then take you out to the archipelago — a ferry, an island, a cabin with a sauna and a jetty, and dinner from a kitchen that grows half of it.

A route we like

(03.b) — 3 stops · 7 nights
  1. Gamla Stan & Norrmalm
    013 nights

    Gamla Stan & Norrmalm

    The old town at eight in the morning before the boats arrive, the changing of the guard, a design hotel with a serious vegan breakfast.

  2. Djurgården
    021 night

    Djurgården

    The Vasa in its dark hall, a picnic on the royal park’s lawns, and the plant-based tasting menu across the water in Södermalm.

  3. The archipelago
    033 nights

    The archipelago

    A steamboat out to Vaxholm or Grinda, a cabin with a sauna and a jetty, a swim at ten in the evening in full daylight.

(03.c) — What to eat
  • Kanelbullar & oat cappuccino
  • Raggmunk with lingonberries
  • New Nordic tasting menus
  • Smörgåsbord, plant-based
  • Foraged mushroom soup
  • Midsummer strawberries
(03.d) — What we watch for

Fish hides in the classics

Herring, roe, and dill cream are everywhere in traditional Swedish food. We point you to the places known for reinventing it instead of just removing it.

Book early, eat early

The best Stockholm kitchens release tables six to eight weeks out and serve dinner at six. We hold the seats before you arrive.

Midsummer changes everything

The week around June 21 the city empties, the islands fill, and half the restaurants close. It’s the best time to be in the archipelago and the worst to be in town.

Thinking about Sweden? Tell us when.